The name Bandarpunch / Banderpunch (also spelt as Bandarpoonch) literally means “monkey’s tail” in Hindi and is a lovely mountain in the Western Garhwal region of Uttarakhand. This massif has three mountains above 6000m, namely the twin peaks of Bandarpunch I (6316m) and Bandarpunch II (6102m) and Kalanag (Black Peak) at 6387m. Bandarpunch II is also called the ‘White Peak’. The massif can easily be spotted from many places in Garhwal. The first successful expedition to Bandarpunch was led by Maj Gen Harold Williams in 1950 with a team comprising of legendary mountaineer Tenzing Norgay. They approached the mountain from the Hanuman Ganga valley lying south west of the mountain. This mountain rose to prominence when the Doon school masters Jack Gibson and John Martyn started using this area to offer climbing experience to their wards during the summer holidays. They were the first ones to actually reconnoiter the route in 1937. Tenzing Norgay refers to Bandarpunch as ‘The Doon School Mountain’ in his autobiography. We approach the mountain from the south east route; the same route which was successfully climbed for the first time by Nehru Institute of Mountaineering (NIM) in 1975 when it took its students of Advance Mountaineering Course in the spring season. The trek to base camp starts from Sukhi, which lies on the road going up to Gangotri. The base camp is a beautiful two days hike from here and we set up two alpine camps above Base Camp before attempting summit. The climbing route is fairly straightforward but is highly crevasse littered between Camp 1 & Summit. This mountain is a perfect training ground for expedition climbing in Himalaya, with the summit offering incredible views of the high mountains of Garhwal in the south & the east (including Satopanth, Sudarshan Parbat, Chandra Parbat, Swetvaran, Matri, Thelu, Srikanth, Jogin, Gangotri range & Jaonli) and mountains of Kinnaur in the western sky.
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Day 01: Overnight train from Delhi to Dehradun
After the mandatory briefing at IMF in Delhi, we proceed to the railway station to take the overnight train to Dehradun arriving in the early hours of morning the next day. Overnight train journey.
Day 02: Arrive Uttarkashi
We arrive early morning at Dehradun. The drive to Uttarkashi goes through windy roads passing the hill town of Mussoorie. We stop at Mussoorie for a quick breakfast and continue northwards to the small town of Uttarkashi which is spread along the banks of the Bhagirathi river. On a clear day we can have the first glimpse of the mountain from Mussoorie or on our drive to Uttarkashi. After lunch at the hotel the guides go through your gear and sort out any things you may have missed. Uttarkashi is home to Nehru Institute of Mountaineering (NIM), one of the premier mountaineering instruction schools in India. Hundreds of young adults have graduated from these schools and have gone on to become great mountaineers. Overnight at Uttarkashi Hotel.
Day 03: Drive 2.5hrs to Sukhi & trek to the forest camp (2950m)
We start early in the morning & drive 2.5 hrs to the starting point of our trek at Sukhi. Sukhi is a small village at an altitude of 2500m and has few houses and many apple orchards. Sep/ Oct is apple harvest time in this area, so you might find many villagers offering apples for free. It is a steep trek up to a Khagi pass at 3420m from where we descend steeply down to the forest camp. The pass offers a good view of our route to the summit on the west and views of Gangotri I, II, III, Jaonli & Srikanth peaks in the south. Overnight at Camp.
Day 04: Trek to Base Camp (3780m)
It is a long days walk to the base camp. We descend to the confluence of Son Gad & Chaiyaan Gad rivers and follow Chaiyyan Gad all the way up to the Base Camp. The walk is very beautiful as it goes through dense forests, some beautiful meadows and finally goes above the tree line to get to the base camp at the foot of the Chaiyyan glacier. We might come across some shepherds camping in the meadows with their flock. Overnight at Camp.
Day 05: A day to sort out gear & acclimatize at Base Camp
We use this day to sort our climbing gear and to acclimatise. We go for a hike to a high point on a trail and return to Base Camp by late afternoon. Overnight at Camp.
Day 06: Load ferry to Camp 1 @ 4450m & back to Base Camp
Day 07: A day to rest & acclimatize at Base Camp
Day 08: Move to Camp 1 (4450m)
Day 09: Rest & Acclimatize at Camp 1 (4450m)
Day 10: Hike up to 5000m & back to Camp 1(4450m)
Day 11: Move up to Summit Camp (5180m)
Day 12: Rest day
Day 13: Climb Banderpunch & descend to Summit Camp
Day 14: Contingency Day
Day 15: Descend from Summit Camp to Base Camp
Day 16: Rest day at Base Camp, sort out all the gear & relax
Day 17: Base Camp to Forest Camp
Day 18: Trek Forest Camp to Sukhi & drive to Uttarkashi
Day 19: Drive to Dehradun & board the evening train to arrive Delhi by 10:45pm
Day 20: De-briefing at IMF office, trip ends!
1,49,000 / 2815
DELHI TO DELHI
- - All travel from Delhi and back to Delhi by rail (by Non AC car / 2 or 3 tier ac coach)
- - All transport in a non AC car as per the itinerary above
- - Accommodation on twin share basis in tents – 15nights / ‘A’ class hotels – 02nights (all meals included)
- - Professional guide fee, wildlife fee and climbing permit
- - All trekking arrangements with an experienced guiding team, camp staff, cook etc.
- - GST as applicable (Subject to change as per govt rules).
- - Individual Climbing Gear.
- - Sleeping Bag & items of personal clothing climbing Gear. (budget on spending INR5000 if renting climbing equipment from Uttarkashi)
- - Any costs arising from early departure from the expedition.
- - Expenses of personal nature like laundry, phone calls, beverages, insurance & tips.
- - Any costs arising out of unforeseen circumstances such as bad weather, landslides, road conditions and any other circumstances beyond our control.
- - Beverages and snacks at Uttatkashi,tips for porters and local guides.
All tour descriptions and conditions are given in accordance with the information of White Magic