Date: September 2019
In September 2018 we will be heading to one of the world’s most remote corners. A 22-day journey to visit the land of one of the world’s last and least visited nomadic cultures: The Kyrgyz of the Afghan Pamir. We will begin and end in Tajikistan’s capital Dushanbe before travelling along the dramatic Pamir Highway and crossing over into Afghanistan. We will then pass through the Wakhan Corridor to the Afghan Pamir. The last section of this journey will be made by foot as we make our way to the summer grazing grounds of Chaqmaqtin.
We will have the opportunity to meet Kyrgyz and Wakhi nomads who graze their livestock here during the summer months as well as seeing ancient tombs and Buddhist engravings, which live as a reminder of this once great section of the Silk Road.
Start Point: Dushanbe, Tajikistan
End Point: Dushanbe, Tajikistan
Maximum number of people: 10
Days 1 – 2 Dushanbe – Kalaikhum – Khorog
After collecting guests from the airport we head straight out of Dushanbe driving along the Pamir Highway towards the town of Khorog. We will overnight in Kalaikhum before taking a rest day in Khorog, nestling on the banks of the Panj River. We will stay overnight in at a local homestay and begin to acclimatize to the mountains and explore this typical Tajik town of the Pamirs.
Please note – if we need visas for Afghanistan for any of the group we go straight to Khorog in one long day and have a rest day in Khorog.
Total driving: 14 – 16 hours
Altitude Dushanbe: 800m
Altitude Khorog: 2100m
Day 3 Khorog to Ishkishim (preparation)
We will drive to the border town of Ishkishim and cross over into Afghanistan. Once in Ishkishim we will be staying at a guesthouse converted from the home of a local man. With the help of the Aga Khan Foundation local families are earning a little extra income this way.
We spend one whole day in Ishkishim with our guide, making the final preparations and collecting our permits for the Wakhan region. Once we have left Ishkishim we will have to be self-sufficient for 14 days and we need this day to ensure we have everything arranged. The guests will have time to explore the local environment and understand some of the Wakhi culture through our Wakhi guide.
Driving: 3 hours
Day 4 Ishkishim – Qala e Panja
The 250km from Ishkishim to Sarhad e Broghil takes us along the narrowest section of the Wakhan Corridor. Passing the 7492m high Noshak, Afghanistan’s highest peak, we will follow in the footsteps of Marco Polo and Hsuan Tsang on this ancient silk route. The road is poor and can be washed out in places but we hope to make it in two long but scenic days.
We will have to stop in the village of Khandud to process some further paperwork and we plan to overnight in the village of Qala e Panja.
Driving: 6-8 hours
Day 5 Qala e Panja – Sarhad e Broghil
We make our way to the furthest point that we can by vehicle. At Sarhad e Broghil the road ends and any further journey must be made on foot or by horse. We spend the afternoon making our final preparations for our trek into the Afghan Pamir.
Driving: 4 hours
Day 6 Sarhad – Daliz Pass – Boharak
The geography of the region means that one of the toughest days trekking comes on the first day. The Wakhan Corridor becomes too steep to follow the river. For the first time since we joined the Panj River we move away from it, and instead must cross three passes. The first is the Daliz Pass (4260 metres) and will involve a vertical altitude gain of 1000 metres. We will overnight in Boharak.
Trekking: 7 hours
Day 7 Boharak – Langar
A further days trekking along the bank of the Wakhan River. We may meet Wakhi shepherds bringing their flocks back to the bigger villages for the winter. We overnight at Langar. Langar means ‘free buffet’ and is a classic spot for the Wakhi to graze their sheep and yaks.
Trekking: 6-7 hours
Day 8 Langar – Khach Goz
The scenery changes during this day of walking from the steep sided valley of the Wakhan to the wide-open plains of the Afghan Pamir. We camp at the lowest of the Kyrgyz settlements of Khach Goz. At Khach Goz we may have to swap our pack animals from Wakhi animals to Kyrgyz animals.
Trekking: 5-6 hours
Day 9 Khach Goz – Bozai Gombaz
A short day of trekking to the largest of the Kyrgyz settlements at Bozai Gombaz. At Bozai Gombaz there is a chance to visit the nearby Kyrgyz tombs, rest or simply watch the Kyrgyz way of life.
Trekking: 2-3 hours
Day 10 Bozai Gombaz – Chaqmaqtin Lake
An easy day of trekking up one of the sources of the Amu Darya, the 9km long Chaqmaqtin Lake where the Kyrgyz nomads graze their sheep and yaks in the summer. We may well see a Bactrian camel train too.
Trekking: 4-5 hours
Day 11 Rest day at Chaqmaqtin Lake
Our local guide has friends amongst the Kyrgyz and we will have time to meet and talk with them. We hope to exchange ideas about the world and to get an insight into their lifestyle and culture, living in yurts in this remote spot, high in the Pamirs.
Day 12 Chaqmaqtin Lake – Kurchin
If weather permits we will take the tough but spectacular high route back from Chaqmaqtin to Sarhad. Seeing more of the stunning Pamir Mountains. We return across the high plains, camping at the small Kyrgyz camp of Kurchin high above Bozai Gombaz.
Trekking: 5-6 hours
Day 13 Kurchin – Aqbelis Pass – Ghughumdeh
After 2-3 hours the group will be at the top of the Aqbelis Pass (4600 metres) with great views of a small alpine lake. Another hour brings the group to a delightful lunch spot. In the early afternoon the group will arrive in Ghughumdeh for the night.
Trekking: 5-6 hours
Day 14 Ghughumdeh – Uween Sar Pass – Nauabad
Possibly the toughest day of the trip. Certainly the crossing of the Uween Sar Pass (4850 metres) is the highest point reached on the trip. An early start should see the group cross the pass around noon. From then on it is downhill to the small camp of Nauabad.
Trekking: 6-8 hours
Day 15 Nauabad – Sang e Nauishdah
A short days trekking allows the group to recover somewhat from the efforts in crossing the Uween Sar Pass.
Overnight in Sang e Nauishdah.
Trekking: 2-3 hours
Day 16 Sang e Nauishdah – Shawr
If the river is low, as it can be at this time of year, then we have an option of making this day an hour or so shorter by fording the river to reach our overnight camp of Shawr. If the rivers are still high then we will cross the river near Boharak.
Trekking: 5-7 hours
Day 17 Shawr – Daliz Pass – Sarhad e Broghil – Qala e Panja
A final crossing of the Daliz Pass (4250 metres) before the descent back into Sarhad e Broghil. Our vehicles will be waiting to take us back towards Tajikistan. We will say goodbye to our horsemen here.
We should reach Qala e Panja that day.
Trekking: 4-5 hours
Driving: 3-4 hours
Day 18 Qala e Panja – Ishkishim
The drive back to Ishkishim should be relatively smooth at this time of year as the river levels are low after the summer snow melt. Once back in Ishkishim there will be time to rest and say goodbye to our Wakhi guides.
Driving: 4-5 hours
Day 19 Ishkishim – Khorog
We cross back into Tajikistan and head back up the Pamir Highway. Khorog will seem like Las Vegas after nearly three weeks in the Pamirs.
Driving: 3 hours
Day 20 Khorog – Kalaikhum
The long drive back to Dushanbe will be broken at the small town of Kalaikhum.
Driving: 6-7 hours
Day 21 Kalaikhum – Dushanbe
A final meal together in Dushanbe.
Driving: 8-9 hours
Day 22 Fly home
We will ensure that you are taken to the airport to catch your flight.
The trip includes:
All food in Afghanistan
Breakfast in Tajikistan
Tents and camping equipment
Permits to visit the Wakhan region
The trip does not include:
Any necessary visas
Lunch and dinner in Tajikistan
A deposit of US$400 is required to reserve your place on this trip.
We do not directly arrange international flights to Tajikistan. We run our Wakhan trips to coincide with the regular Turkish Airlines flights from Europe to Dushanbe, which is the most practical route into Tajikistan.
You can also contact the Untamed Borders dedicated team at Flight Centre for other suggested routes.
Phone: +44(0) 844 560 9966
You will need Double entry Tajikistan visa with GBAO permit and an Afghan Visa for this trip. We will assist with advice on how best to obtain these visas as visa requirements vary from country to country.
If you are based in the UK or Australia then we can recommend using The Visa Machine as a visa agent.
Visit the Untamed Borders page at their website – untamedborders.thevisamachine.com
The Wakhan and Afghan Pamir regions are both very remote areas in one of the least developed countries in the world. Please ensure that your insurance covers you both for visiting Afghanistan and for rescue in the Wakhan region of Afghanistan. If you have any questions about which insurance company to select please contact us.
Outside of Dushanbe options will be limited and once we are on the trek we will only be able to eat what we bring with us, or barter for from the nomadic people. Any specific allergies or dietary requirements can be accommodated if we are given prior warning.
We do not and cannot offer a uniform accommodation standard on our itineraries. We consider comfort, location, design, character, historical interest and whether the money we spend will go into the pockets of the local community when we make our choices of where to stay.
The accommodation will be based on 2 people sharing a room when that is available. When we are in the Wakhan area we will be staying in tents and in local guesthouses that sometimes only offer central communal areas to sleep in.
We always check the vehicles we use thoroughly before each trip. In Afghanistan we aim to use four-wheel drive vehicles and take with us a satellite phone should the vehicle develop a fault.
When we choose our vehicles and drivers we take into consideration the road conditions, the length of journey and the competence of the man behind the wheel. Your comfort, enjoyment and safety of the journey is the first priority.
For this trip we use team leaders from Untamed Borders who have experience of guiding in the Wakhan. In addition to these experienced leaders we will be working with local Wakhi guides and porters.
Trips to Afghanistan do create dangers all of their own and whilst we want you to have as much freedom as possible we must state that the tour leader has the final word with regards to changes in the itinerary for safety reasons. Whilst the route we have chosen passes through areas that we consider to be relatively stable things can change and we may have to alter the route or cancel sections of the trip at short notice.
Contact us for further information at firstname.lastname@example.org
All tour descriptions and conditions are given in accordance with the information of Untamed Borders